-4-pin female connector
-the wiring used in this tutorial works for the preamp kit, nanofader 1.2, and nanofader 2.flesh
-wire length depends on where the switch is mounted
-wire length does not affect performance
1. Solder a wire to the switch terminal as shown in pic_1_wire1
2. Solder a second wire to the switch terminal as shown in pic_2_wire2
3. Solder a third wire to the switch terminal as shown in pic_3_wire3
4. Solder a fourth wire to the switch terminal as shown in pic_4_wire4
6. Twist the wires as shown in pic_5_twist. This will help organize the wires into pairs.
7. Solder one pair of wires to the connector as shown in pic_6_pair1
8. Solder the second pair of wires to the connector as shown in pic_7_pair2
9. See pic_8_complete for the completed wire assembly
Phono Preamp Kit Installation Guide for the Numark PT01 Scratch
-phono preamp kit
-wire of your choice (not included)
-requires the m44-7 tonearm mod
-works with the PT01 Scratch using it’s standard wall power supply, or with the rechargeable battery mod
-works with PT01USB with the rechargeable battery mod (the standard wall supply is not good enough)
-designed for use with the Shure M44-7, but also works with other moving magnet cartridges
-the non-USB version of the PT01 and Vestax Handytrax have not yet been tested
-the front controls of the PT01 will still work after this mod
-the bass kill switch install is not required for operation. Bass kill is disabled by default.
-keep an eye on the wiring, when closing the turntable after install. Don’t let the wires get smashed.
-Prepare Tonearm wires
1. Peel away the glue from the tonearm wires (see pic_1_remove_glue)
2. Unsolder the tonearm wires from the main PCB (see pic_2_unsolder_tonearm)
3. Remove PCB screws (see pic_3_remove_PCB_screws)
4. Remove capacitors C8 and C18 from the main Numark PCB (see pic_4_remove_C8_C18). See pic_5_C8_C18_bottom for a bottom view of the PCB, when the capacitors are removed
-Add Line Audio Wires
5. Strip about 3mm of insulation from two short wires (about 2 inches long each).
6. Drop the stripped wire into the existing capacitor hole (see pic_6_add_line_audio_wires)
-note that the guide uses white wire for Left channel audio, and red wire for Right channel audio
7. Solder the wires on the bottom side of the PCB
-Remount the main PCB
8. Remount the main PCB by replacing the 4 previously removed PCB screws (see pic_7_replace_PCB_screws)
-Mount Phono Preamp
9. Remove one of the wide head start/stop switch mounting screws (see pic_8_remove_switch_screw)
10. Remove the pan head GND mounting screw (see pic_9_remove_GND_screw)
11. Bend Numark capacitors C7 and C17 into a horizontal position, so they do not touch the bottom of the new preamp. Note that The Numark circuit below the new preamp will no longer be used, so those capacitors can be unsoldered or cut out with cutters, if required. Typically, they can be easily bent into a horizontal position. The horizontal position of those 2 capacitors can be seen in pic_2_unsolder_tonearm.
12. Use the pan head GND mounting screw to mount the phono preamp on the start/stop switch mounting hole (see pic_10_mount_preamp)
13. Use the wide head start/stop switch mounting screw to re-secure the GND terminal (see pic_11_replace_GND_screw)
-note: we are just swapping screws here, so the smaller head screw mounts the phono preamp
-Connect Audio Wires
14. Loosen the screws of the green terminal blocks (all of them), so that the jaws of the terminal blocks are open.
15. Place the tonearm wires into the AUDIO_IN phono preamp terminal block and tighten the terminal block screws (see pic_12_connect_tonearm_wires)
16. Place the Line audio wires into the AUDIO_OUT phono preamp terminal block and tighten the terminal block screws (see pic_13_connect_line_wires)
-Connect Power Wires
17. Solder wires to the PT01 power PCB regulator as shown in pic_14_solder_power_wires. These wires are long to allow the turntable case to flip open for future mods.
18. Place the power wires into the phono preamp power terminal block, and tighten the terminal block screws (see pic_15_connect_power_wires).
19. Position the new wires, so they don’t get pinched by the turntable mounting screws.
20. Reassemble the turntable
-when the platter speed switch is set the 33rpm, the platter will spin at ~22rpm
-when the platter speed is set to 45rpm, the platter will spin at 33rpm
-this mod can only be done on newer (example 2014) PT01 turntables
-older models, such as circa 2006, have a different motor control circuit and require a different mod
-the new models have the orange potentiometer shown below, where the older models have a blue potentiometer
-download the “RPM – the turntable speed accuracy checker” iPhone app to test platter speed
-this mod came from a forum comment by Rasteri, which said “Replace VR1 with a 2K resistor and that lowers the 33RPM speed to about 20RPM”
-buy Dj Focus’ ultrapitch mod for full control, and to support the skratch community
-works with ultrapitch 7” records, such as skiratcha breaks from DJ A1
-Remove and Replace VR1
1. Unsolder the potentiometer in VR1
2a. Solder a resistor across the 2 pins shown in pic_1_replace_VR1. This picture shows a 2.2k ohm resistor in place of VR1. This results in a platter speed of ~20rpm, when the platter speed switch is set to 33rpm, and ~32rpm when set to 45rpm (varies between turntables).
-Alternate VR1 values
2b. It was found through test that a 960 ohm resistance across VR1 results in a clean 33rpm, when the platter speed switch was set to 45rpm. This resistance results in 22rpm, when the platter speed switch is at 33rpm. A 820 ohm and 150 ohm resistor were connected in series to achieve ~970 ohms. The resulting speed vs. resistance value depends a lot on the friction between the spindle and the platter. A value between 1k and 2k ohm should work great. see pic_2_replace_VR1_series
-Install 3D Printed Tonearm Clip
1. Remove white backing paper from tonearm clip
2. Stick 3D printed tonearm clip onto existing PT01 tonearm clip. Make sure the orientation of the 3D printed clip base matches the existing PT01 tonearm clip, before sticking (one side is round, one side is square)
–plastic pick, such as a guitar pick
–plastic putty knife (any plastic putty knife from your local hardware store will work. Preferably, not more than a couple inches wide)
-always use plastic tools for the procedure to avoid faceplate and plastic housing does not get scratched
-the metal faceplate is applied to the plastic turntable housing with heavy double sided tape
-the adhesive sticks to the faceplate better than the housing, so there is little damage to the housing, when removed
-the plastic housing below the faceplate is black
-there is no need to paint or replace the faceplate, if a black faceplate is desired
-removing the faceplate exposes a spring and a hole for the spring, which is a good place to add a switch or knob
-the spring is attached to the housing with a single screw (no solder). Remove the screw to remove the spring.
-Start at the 45 Adapter
2. Starting at the 45 adapter hole, use a plastic pick and gently pry up the faceplate. The 45 adapter hole is a good place to start, because it doesn’t have a beveled edge to protect the faceplate.
3. Lift the corner of the faceplate from the 45 adapter hole enough to fit a second plastic pick or putty knife along the outer edge of the faceplate (see pic_1_45_adapter)
-Pry Outer Edge
4. Work around the outer edge of the faceplate. Be careful not to pry too far up, or the faceplate will bend (see pic_2_outer_edge)
-Pry Inner Faceplate
5. Use a plastic putty knife to pry the deeper sections of the faceplate, such as between the platter and the EQ controls (see pic_3_putty_knife)
-Lift Faceplate Off
5. Use your hands to lift/pry the faceplate the rest of the way off. Be careful not to cut your hands on the edge of the metal faceplate.
-any push on – push off or latching switch with a greater than ~300mA rating will work for this
-the switch listed above was used for this install
-if you remove the PT01 faceplate, this switch fits in the existing spring hole without drilling (remove the spring, which is attached internally with one screw)
-Remove the Existing Switch
1. Unsolder and remove the existing start/stop switch (see pic_1_remove_switch)
-Mount the New Switch
2. Mount the new switch in a preferred location (see pic_2_mounted switch). For this guide, the switch is mounted in the existing spring hole with the faceplate removed (see faceplate removal guide for instructions on removing the faceplate).
3. Solder 2 wires to the existing switch PCB (see pic_3_add_wires)
4. Solder these wires to the new switch (see pic_4_connect_switch)
-there are at least 2 different platter heights for the PT01
-the older model, circa 2006, has a low platter height
-the newer model, circa 2014, has a high platter height
-one clear difference between models is that the belt holder attached to the motor is plastic on the 2006 model, and metal on the 2014 model
1. Use a pair of pliers to push off the spindle clip (see pic_1_remove_spindle_clip)
2. Push on one edge of the platter to raise the opposite edge
3. Lift the platter using the raised edge, and remove platter (see pic_2_remove platter)
-Install Platter bar
4. Remove white adhesive backing from platter bar (see pic_3_platter_bar_backing)
5. Place the wide edge of the platter bar flush against the turntable wall (see pic_4_place_platter_bar)
6. Cut or break off the 2 nubs on the bottom side of the platter (they have no functionality). This will stop the nubs from potentially hitting the platter bars. See pic_6_cut_nub
7. Reinstall the platter and platter clip.
a. wrap the turntable belt around the inner edge of the platter first
b. place the platter on the spindle, while pulling on the belt with one finger to keep tension
c. wrap the belt, which is being held with one finger, around the motor spindle
d. reinstall platter clip using pliers
8. Turn on the motor and let the platter spin. If the platter rubs on the the platter bars, push down hard on the platter and move it back and forth in a baby scratch motion. This will grind down the platter bar’s plastic housing. Turn on the motor again to see if the platter still rubs on the platter bars. Repeat until the platter stops rubbing on the platter bar during playback. See “How to Grind Down Platter Bars Video”, below:
-data was taken to objectively compare the stock ceramic needle and tonearm to a 3D printed tonearm with M44-7 needle and Pyle PP444 preamp on a Numark PT01
-data includes output level testing using a “Cardas Frequency Sweep and Burn-In Record” as source material
-audio data is taken with an Audio Precision APx515 audio analyzer
-The Pyle PP444 phono preamp was chosen for it’s very low cost, and +9V (single rail) operation
-a much higher quality preamp can be used if desired
-top level view, the data says that the output level is similar between turntable 1 and turntable 2
-the m44-7 has a bit more low end
-the ceramic needle has a bit more high end
-the m44-7 is louder with a 1kHz tone audio source
-the ceramic needle is louder with a pink noise audio source
-the ceramic needle has a lower noise floor when the platter is moving
-the m44-7 has a lower noise floor when the patter is not moving
-the m44-7 has less record wear
-the m44-7 has better anti-skate performance when bouncing (i.e. more likely to land back on the correct skipless scratch section of the record)
–platter bars will help with bounce performance for both needles
-Needle and Tonearm Comparison Data
1. See the Needle and Tonearm Comparison Table, and associated spectrums
Needle and Tonearm Comparison Table
Ceramic Needle (mVrms)
M44-7 with Pyle PP444 Preamp (mVrms)
1kHz tone, full volume, flat EQ
1kHz tone, full volume, Hi EQ
1kHz tone, full volume, Low EQ
Tonarm docked, no input (noise floor test)
Tonearm undocked, no input (noise floor test, platter moving)
Pink Noise, full volume, flat EQ
Pink Noise, full volume, Hi EQ
Pink Noise, full volume, Low EQ
-all data taken with Audio Precision APx515
-both turntables were wall powered for all tests
-the 1kHz and pink noise audio source was generated by playing source material from the “Cardas Frequency Sweep and Burn-In Record” vinyl record
-“Cermaic Needle” refers to the Numark PT01 stock needle
-“M44-7” refers to a shure M44-7 cartridge mounted on a 3D printed tonearm
-“with Pyle PP44” refers to a modified Numark PT01, where the existing preamp is bypassed, and a Pyle PP444 is installed in it’s place
-“flat EQ” refers the tone control knob in center position
-“Hi EQ” refers to the tone control knob in “High” position
-“Low EQ” refers to the tone control knob in the “Low” position
How to Adjust the Counterweight for a 3D Printed Tonearm
3D printed tonearm
-the scale used for test is a 5g (maximum) stylus scale, with 0.01g precision
-the sure m44-7 needle expects 3-5g of weight for optimal tracking and audio performance
-Check Weight of Needle
1. Check the weight of the needle using a stylus scale (first measured weight is at 3.48g, see video)
2a. Increase the counterweight by removing tension from the counterweight rubber band. In this case, the rubber band moves from the inside position to the outside position to reduce tension (second weight is at 4.26g, see video).
2b. Tension can also be adjusted by using a rubber band of a different thickness, and also by stretching or releasing tension in the section of the rubber band between the base of the tonearm and the back of the tonearm
-Disconnect the rechargeable battery from the PT01, when powering the PT01 from a wall supply.
-Charge the battery by disconnecting the DC plug from the battery, and charge it using it’s supplied charging wall supply.
-The battery power switch must be on, while charging the battery (explained in the battery instructions, but are in Chinese)
-Turn the battery power switch off, when not in use to save charge (not required).
-see LM7805 data sheet for more info on the PT01 regulator (actual part number is LM7809)
-Connect Wires to the PT01 Power Supply Input
For PT01 or PT01USB (see step 1b for PT01-Scratch):
1a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB (not PT01-Scratch), solder a GND wire (black) to the center pin (pin 2) of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
2a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB, solder a power wire (red) to pin 1 of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
1b. On the PT01-Scratch power supply PCB, solder the GND and Power wires to the bottom side of the DC input connector (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
-Connect DC Plug
3. Confirm whether the center pin of the DC plug needs to be + or – by reading the label on your rechargeable battery. The center pin is + for the battery listed above.
4. If using the battery listed above, solder the red wire to the center pin of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)
5. If using the battery listed above, solder the black wire to the outer ring of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)
6. The battery can be mounted however you like. I like the using the picture hanging strips listed above. One strip is mounted on the wall of the PT01 within the battery compartment (sticky side against wall), and one strip gets mounted on the battery (sticky side against battery). I put a set of strips on 2 sides of the battery (example: side and top). This is rock solid, and allows the battery to be removed, if necessary (see pic3_Battery_placement).