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Skiratcha Tonearm Install Guide

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Skiratcha Tonearm Install Guide
-adds an m44-7 compliant tonearm with integrated phono preamp to the Numark PT01USB, and PT01-Scratch

Parts needed:
-Skiratcha Tonearm kit
-Philips Screw driver

notes:
-the Skiratcha Tonearm has an integrated RIAA phono preamp. Do not install an additional preamp.
-the spring counterweight adds the ideal weight for record playback. Add the optional black tension band (see step 41) to increase stylus weight, while scratching
-touch the Skiratcha chicken head to turn on/off the headshell lights
-use the integrated bass kill slide switch to turn on/off bass kill
-add platter bars for best bounce performance

-Before You Start: Test Your PT01
-Any defects in performance will likely still be present after upgrading the tonearm. Fix them first
-Make sure the power turns on and you see the red power light (next to the 33/45/78 rpm switch)
-Listen to a record using headphones connected directly to the PT01’s headphone jack
-Using headphones, make sure the left and right audio channels are both working
-Using headphones, listen closely for any audio hum or buzzing
-Using headphones, turn on the motor without playing a record
-Listen for any pops or hum, while the motor is turned on and off and while the motor is running

-Remove Existing Tonearm (part 1)
1. See tonearm removal guide. Keep the tonearm axle for the Skiratcha install.

-Open the PT01
2. Remove the 8 screws on the bottom of the PT01 (see pic_1_open_pt01)
3. On the PT01’s USB board, unplug the red and white audio connectors (see pic_2_USB_cables)
4. On the PT01’s power supply board, unplug the TE14 red/white power cable and the TE12 black ribbon cable (see pic_3_power_cables)

pic_1_open_pt01
pic_1_open_pt01
pic_2_USB_cables
pic_2_USB_cables
pic_3_power_cables
pic_3_power_cables

-Remove Existing Tonearm (part 2)
5. On the PT01’s main board, remove capacitors C8 and C18. The easiest way to do this is to clip the leads with wire cutters or fingernail clippers. Cut the capacitor legs flush with the main board, so they do not touch each other or other parts of the main board (see pic_4_remove_capacitors_and_wires)
6. On the PT01’s main board, remove the existing tonearm wires. Cut the existing tonearm wires from the “R IN”, “GND”, and “L IN” bars. Cut them as close to the bars as possible, so they do not touch each other (see pic_4_remove_capacitors_and_wires)

pic_4_remove_capacitors_and_wires
pic_4_remove_capacitors_and_wires

-Mount the Tonearm Clip
7. On the platter side of the PT01, mount the tonearm clip. Remove the paper backing from the clip’s adhesive, and press it onto the existing tonearm clip. Note the orientation of the clip’s step groove (see pic_5_clip_install)

pic_5_clip_install
pic_5_clip_install

-Mount the M44-7 Cartridge
8. Remove the stylus from the m44-7 cartridge. This will avoid damage to the needle during the tonearm install.
9. Connect the m44-7 to the tonearm wires (see pic_6_headshell_wires)
10. Mount the m44-7 onto the headshell using the included black screws, nuts, and hex key. The screw head should be on the top side of the tonearm, and the nut should be below the cartridge (see pic_7_mount_m447)

pic_6_headshell_wires
pic_6_headshell_wires
pic_7_mount_m447
pic_7_mount_m447

-Mount the Tonearm
11. Feed the Skiratcha tonearm wire through the spring clip using the included tweezers. Note that the flat part of the spring clip should face upwards towards the tonearm (see pic_8_spring_clip)
12. Feed the Skiratcha tonearm wire through the PT01’s tonearm base (see pic_9_base_wire)
13. Press fit the spring clip into the PT01’s tonearm base. Make sure to press the spring clip all the way down (see pic_10_spring_clip_installed)
14. Align the holes in the Skiratcha tonearm’s base with the PT01’s metal tonearm base. Remove the slack in the tonearm wire by gently tugging on the tonearm wire from inside the PT01.
15. Press the smooth end (not the knurled end) of the tonearm axle through the tonearm base, PT01 metal base, and spring clip (see pic_11_tonearm_axle)
16. Look through the hole on the opposite side of the tonearm to align the tonearm holes with the holes in the PT01 base, and press the knurled side of the tonearm axle into the tonearm (see pic_12_hole_alignment)
17. Press fit the neck of the Skiratcha tonearm into the tonearm clip to secure the tonearm (see pic_13_secure_tonearm)

pic_8_spring_clip
pic_8_spring_clip
pic_9_base_wire
pic_9_base_wire
pic_10_spring_clip_installed
pic_10_spring_clip_installed
pic_11_tonearm_axle
pic_11_tonearm_axle
pic_12_hole_alignment
pic_12_hole_alignment
pic_13_secure_tonearm
pic_13_secure_tonearm

-Connect Tonearm Wires to Tonearm Adapter Board (TAV2)
18. Close and lock the PT01’s lid onto the top half of the PT01. This will protect the tonearm, while we complete the install (see pic_14_close_lid)
19. Pick up the top half of the PT01 and place it on a table with the cover side down
20. Bend the Skiratcha tonearm wires into a pitchfork shape. The wire order should be black (GND), white (right), yellow (left), red (+). Make sure that the exposed wire ends are bent back onto the wires insulation. The adds strength to the wire, when connected to the green terminal block (see pic_15_wire_ends)
21. On the Tonearm Adapter board, use the supplied blue screw driver to loosen all 4 of the green terminal block screws (i.e., open all 4 terminal block holes)
22. Insert all 4 Skiratcha tonearm wires into the Tonearm Adapter board’s green terminal block at the same time. Make sure the wires are inserted all the way into the terminal block (see pic_16_terminal_block)
Very important: note the wire orientation: black (GND), white (right), yellow (left), red (+)
23. Tighten all 4 terminal block screws

pic_14_close_lid
pic_14_close_lid
pic_15_wire_ends
pic_15_wire_ends
pic_16_terminal_block
pic_16_terminal_block

-Connect Tonearm Adapter Board (TAV2)
24. On the PT01 main board, unplug TE13 (see pic_17_TE13)
25. Connect the TE13 wire from step 24 to the “USB” header on the Tonearm Adapter board (see pic_18_USB_header)
26. The Skiratcha tonearm kit includes a white 3-pin cable with plastic plugs on each end. Connect one end of this cable to the “MAIN” header on the Tonearm Adapter board (see pic_19_main)
27. Plug the other side of the cable from step 26 into header TE13 of the PT01’s main board (see pic_20_main_TE13)
28. On the PT01 power supply board, unplug the connector from header TE14. This should have been done in step 4 (see pic_21_TE14)
29. On the PT01 power supply board, remove the screw closest to TE14 (see pic_21_TE14)
30. On the PT01 power supply board, install the Tonearm Adapter board. Insert the PT01’s mounting screw, and make sure it’s tight (see pic_22_mount_TAV2)
31. Insert the red/black 2-wire plug from the Tonearm Adapter board into TE14 (see pic_23_TAV2_TE14)
Very important: note the wire orientation: black (VCC), red (GND)
32. Plug the cable from step 28 into the “PT01” header of the Tonearm Adapter board (see pic_24_PT01_TE14)

pic_17_TE13
pic_17_TE13
pic_18_USB_header
pic_18_USB_header
pic_19_main
pic_19_main
pic_20_main_TE13
pic_20_main_TE13
pic_21_TE14
pic_21_TE14
pic_22_mount_TAV2
pic_22_mount_TAV2
pic_23_TAV2_TE14
pic_23_TAV2_TE14
pic_24_PT01_TE14
pic_24_PT01_TE14

-Reconnect PT01 Wires
33. On the PT01’s power supply board, reconnect the PT01’s black ribbon cable to header TE12 (see pic_25_TE12)
34. On the PT01’s USB board, reconnect the red and white audio cables (see pic_26_USB_cables2)
35. Align and place the top half of the PT01 onto the bottom half of the PT01 (don’t put the 8 screws into the bottom side, yet)

pic_25_TE12
pic_25_TE12
pic_26_USB_cables2
pic_26_USB_cables2

-Skiratcha Tonearm Spring Counterweight
36. Open the lid of the PT01
37. Stage the PT01 to get a good view of the back of the Skiratcha tonearm
38. On the back of the Skiratcha tonearm, grip the ring of the counterweight spring with the supplied black tweezers
39. Angle the tweezers at a 45 degree angle (with the the tip of the tweezers pointing upwards), and pull the spring towards the tonearm’s spring anchor (see pic_27_spring)
40. While keeping the tweezers’ angle at 45 degrees, place the ring of the counterweight spring onto the spring anchor (see pic_28_anchor)

pic_27_spring
pic_27_spring
pic_28_anchor
pic_28_anchor

-Optional: Scratch Tension Band
Note: The tension band adds stylus weight above the recommended Shure M44-7 tracking weight of 5 grams. Only add the tension band for scratching.
41. Place the black tension band over the Skiratcha tonearm neck (see pic_29_neck_tension)
42. Attach the tension band between the Skiratcha tonearm neck and the PT01’s tonearm base (see pic_30_tension_base)

pic_29_neck_tension
pic_29_neck_tension
pic_30_tension_base
pic_30_tension_base

-Test
43. Reinstall the M44-7 stylus (see pic_31_stylus)
44. Turn on the PT01’s power and look for the PT01’s red power light (next to the 33/45/78 rpm switch). If the light doesn’t turn on, immediately turn off the power. Check the red/black cables on all of the connectors, and try again.
45. Test the audio output of the PT01 using stereo headphones. Make sure the left and right audio channels are present (see pic_32_headphones). If there are any stereo audio issues, check the wires in step 22.

pic_31_stylus
pic_31_stylus
pic_32_headphones
pic_32_headphones

-Reassemble
45. Close and lock the PT01 lid
46. Flip the PT01 over, and install the 8 case screws into the bottom. Make sure that none of the ribbon cables or wires are stuck between the screw mounts or PT01 edge, before tightening the screws (see pic_33_reassemble)

pic_33_reassemble
pic_33_reassemble
Posted on 12 Comments

Ultrapitch (simplified) Mod for Numark PT01

 

This is a Simplified Ultrapitch Modification for the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
Resistor between 1k ohm and 2k ohm

notes:
-when the platter speed switch is set the 33rpm, the platter will spin at ~22rpm
-when the platter speed is set to 45rpm, the platter will spin at 33rpm
-this mod can only be done on newer (example 2014) PT01 turntables
-older models, such as circa 2006, have a different motor control circuit and require a different mod
-the new models have the orange potentiometer shown below, where the older models have a blue potentiometer
-download the “RPM – the turntable speed accuracy checker” iPhone app to test platter speed
-this mod came from a forum comment by Rasteri, which said “Replace VR1 with a 2K resistor and that lowers the 33RPM speed to about 20RPM”
-buy Dj Focus’ ultrapitch mod for full control, and to support the skratch community
-works with ultrapitch 7” records, such as skiratcha breaks from DJ A1

-Remove and Replace VR1
1. Unsolder the potentiometer in VR1

2a. Solder a resistor across the 2 pins shown in pic_1_replace_VR1. This picture shows a 2.2k ohm resistor in place of VR1. This results in a platter speed of ~20rpm, when the platter speed switch is set to 33rpm, and ~32rpm when set to 45rpm (varies between turntables).

pic_1_replace_VR
pic_1_replace_VR

-Alternate VR1 values
2b. It was found through test that a 960 ohm resistance across VR1 results in a clean 33rpm, when the platter speed switch was set to 45rpm. This resistance results in 22rpm, when the platter speed switch is at 33rpm. A 820 ohm and 150 ohm resistor were connected in series to achieve ~970 ohms. The resulting speed vs. resistance value depends a lot on the friction between the spindle and the platter. A value between 1k and 2k ohm should work great. see pic_2_replace_VR1_series

pic_2_replace_VR1_series
pic_2_replace_VR1_series

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3D Printed Tonearm Clip Install for Numark PT01

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Adds 3D Printed Tonearm Clip to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
3D printed tonearm clip

notes:
-only for use with 3D printed tonearms

-Install 3D Printed Tonearm Clip
1. Remove white backing paper from tonearm clip
2. Stick 3D printed tonearm clip onto existing PT01 tonearm clip. Make sure the orientation of the 3D printed clip base matches the existing PT01 tonearm clip, before sticking (one side is round, one side is square)

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Faceplate Removal for Numark PT01

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How to Remove the Numark PT01’s Metal Faceplate

Parts needed:
plastic pick, such as a guitar pick
plastic putty knife (any plastic putty knife from your local hardware store will work. Preferably, not more than a couple inches wide)

notes:
-always use plastic tools for the procedure to avoid faceplate and plastic housing does not get scratched
-the metal faceplate is applied to the plastic turntable housing with heavy double sided tape
-the adhesive sticks to the faceplate better than the housing, so there is little damage to the housing, when removed
-the plastic housing below the faceplate is black
-there is no need to paint or replace the faceplate, if a black faceplate is desired
-removing the faceplate exposes a spring and a hole for the spring, which is a good place to add a switch or knob
-the spring is attached to the housing with a single screw (no solder). Remove the screw to remove the spring.

-Remove the tonearm
1. See tonearm removal guide

-Start at the 45 Adapter
2. Starting at the 45 adapter hole, use a plastic pick and gently pry up the faceplate. The 45 adapter hole is a good place to start, because it doesn’t have a beveled edge to protect the faceplate.
3. Lift the corner of the faceplate from the 45 adapter hole enough to fit a second plastic pick or putty knife along the outer edge of the faceplate (see pic_1_45_adapter)

pic_1_45_adapter
pic_1_45_adapter

-Pry Outer Edge
4. Work around the outer edge of the faceplate. Be careful not to pry too far up, or the faceplate will bend (see pic_2_outer_edge)

pic_2_outer_edge
pic_2_outer_edge

-Pry Inner Faceplate
5. Use a plastic putty knife to pry the deeper sections of the faceplate, such as between the platter and the EQ controls (see pic_3_putty_knife)

pic_3_putty_knife
pic_3_putty_knife

-Lift Faceplate Off
5. Use your hands to lift/pry the faceplate the rest of the way off. Be careful not to cut your hands on the edge of the metal faceplate.

-Mount a Start/Stop switch in the Spring Hole (optional)
6. See start/stop switch guide

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Start/Stop Switch Install for Numark PT01

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Adds start/stop switch to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
SPST (Push 0n – Push off) Switch

notes:
-any push on – push off or latching switch with a greater than ~300mA rating will work for this
-the switch listed above was used for this install
-if you remove the PT01 faceplate, this switch fits in the existing spring hole without drilling (remove the spring, which is attached internally with one screw)

-Remove the Existing Switch
1. Unsolder and remove the existing start/stop switch (see pic_1_remove_switch)

pic_1_remove_switch
pic_1_remove_switch

-Mount the New Switch
2. Mount the new switch in a preferred location (see pic_2_mounted switch). For this guide, the switch is mounted in the existing spring hole with the faceplate removed (see faceplate removal guide for instructions on removing the faceplate).

pic_2_mounted switch

-Solder Wires
3. Solder 2 wires to the existing switch PCB (see pic_3_add_wires)

pic_3_add_wires
pic_3_add_wires

4. Solder these wires to the new switch (see pic_4_connect_switch)

pic_4_connect_switch

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Platter Bar Install and Comparison

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How to Install Platter Bars for the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
platter bars
needle nose pliers

Optional Parts:
silicone grease

notes:
-there are at least 2 different platter heights for the PT01
-the older model, circa 2006, has a low platter height
-the newer model, circa 2014, has a high platter height
-one clear difference between models is that the belt holder attached to the motor is plastic on the 2006 model, and metal on the 2014 model

-Remove Platter
1. Use a pair of pliers to push off the spindle clip (see pic_1_remove_spindle_clip)

pic_1_remove_spindle_clip
pic_1_remove_spindle_clip

2. Push on one edge of the platter to raise the opposite edge

3. Lift the platter using the raised edge, and remove platter (see pic_2_remove platter)

pic_1_remove_spindle_clip
pic_1_remove_spindle_clip

-Install Platter bar
4. Remove white adhesive backing from platter bar (see pic_3_platter_bar_backing)

pic_3_platter_bar_backing
pic_3_platter_bar_backing

5. Place the wide edge of the platter bar flush against the turntable wall (see pic_4_place_platter_bar)

pic_4_place_platter_bar
pic_4_place_platter_bar

6. Cut or break off the 2 nubs on the bottom side of the platter (they have no functionality). This will stop the nubs from potentially hitting the platter bars. See pic_6_cut_nub

pic_6_cut_nub
pic_6_cut_nub

7. Reinstall the platter and platter clip.
a. wrap the turntable belt around the inner edge of the platter first
b. place the platter on the spindle, while pulling on the belt with one finger to keep tension
c. wrap the belt, which is being held with one finger, around the motor spindle
d. reinstall platter clip using pliers

8. Turn on the motor and let the platter spin. If the platter rubs on the the platter bars, push down hard on the platter and move it back and forth in a baby scratch motion. This will grind down the platter bar’s plastic housing. Turn on the motor again to see if the platter still rubs on the platter bars. Repeat until the platter stops rubbing on the platter bar during playback. See “How to Grind Down Platter Bars Video”, below:

How to Grind Down Platter Bars Video:

Platter Bar Comparison Video:

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3D Printed Tonearm Counterweight Adjustment

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How to Adjust the Counterweight for a 3D Printed Tonearm

Parts needed:
3D printed tonearm

notes:
-the scale used for test is a 5g (maximum) stylus scale, with 0.01g precision
-the sure m44-7 needle expects 3-5g of weight for optimal tracking and audio performance

-Check Weight of Needle
1. Check the weight of the needle using a stylus scale (first measured weight is at 3.48g, see video)

-Adjust Counterweight
2a. Increase the counterweight by removing tension from the counterweight rubber band. In this case, the rubber band moves from the inside position to the outside position to reduce tension (second weight is at 4.26g, see video).

2b. Tension can also be adjusted by using a rubber band of a different thickness, and also by stretching or releasing tension in the section of the rubber band between the base of the tonearm and the back of the tonearm

Posted on 36 Comments

Rechargeable Battery Install

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Adds 12V rechargeable Lithium Ion battery to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
12V rechargeable battery
DC plug (2.1mm x 5.1mm)
Picture hanging Strips (optional, or can be substituted):

notes:
-Disconnect the rechargeable battery from the PT01, when powering the PT01 from a wall supply.
-Charge the battery by disconnecting the DC plug from the battery, and charge it using it’s supplied charging wall supply.
-The battery power switch must be on, while charging the battery (explained in the battery instructions, but are in Chinese)
-Turn the battery power switch off, when not in use to save charge (not required).
-see LM7805 data sheet for more info on the PT01 regulator (actual part number is LM7809)

-Connect Wires to the PT01 Power Supply Input
For PT01 or PT01USB (see step 1b for PT01-Scratch):
1a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB (not PT01-Scratch), solder a GND wire (black) to the center pin (pin 2) of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
2a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB, solder a power wire (red) to pin 1 of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)

pic1_PT01_regulator
pic1_PT01_regulator

For PT01-Scratch:
1b. On the PT01-Scratch power supply PCB, solder the GND and Power wires to the bottom side of the DC input connector (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)

pic_1b_PT01_Scratch
pic_1b_PT01_Scratch

-Connect DC Plug
3. Confirm whether the center pin of the DC plug needs to be + or – by reading the label on your rechargeable battery. The center pin is + for the battery listed above.
4. If using the battery listed above, solder the red wire to the center pin of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)

pic2_DC_plug
pic2_DC_plug

5. If using the battery listed above, solder the black wire to the outer ring of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)

-Mount Battery
6. The battery can be mounted however you like. I like the using the picture hanging strips listed above. One strip is mounted on the wall of the PT01 within the battery compartment (sticky side against wall), and one strip gets mounted on the battery (sticky side against battery). I put a set of strips on 2 sides of the battery (example: side and top). This is rock solid, and allows the battery to be removed, if necessary (see pic3_Battery_placement).

pic3_Battery_placement
pic3_Battery_placement
Posted on 17 Comments

Preamp Modification – PP444

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Adds a Pyle PP444 Preamp to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
Pyle Pro PP444
-Hook-up wire for connections

notes:
-the 12V rechargeable battery mod is highly recommended for use with this preamp mod
-the rechargeable battery mod, which gets regulated by the PT01, will remove power supply noise injected into the preamp by unregulated 9V D cell batteries
-the rechargeable battery mod is not required if you only use the wall power supply (it is regulated by the PT01).

-Disassemble PP444
1. unbox pp444
2. remove 4 housing screws from the PP444 and remove cover
3. remove 2 PCB screws
4. remove 2 panel mount screws (screws by RCA connectors)
5. remove PCB from enclosure

-Connect Tonearm Wires to PP444 Input
6. On the PT01 PCB, unsolder tonearm wires from J8, J9, and J16 (L_in, GND, and R_in)
7. Solder these wires to the bottom side of the PP444 PCB. see pic_1_tonarm_wires_to_pp444

pic_1_tonearm_wires_to_pp444
pic_1_tonearm_wires_to_pp444

-Connect PP444 Output to Numark PT01 Input
8. On the PT01 PCB, remove the 4 mounting screws.
9. On the PT01 PCB, unsolder and remove capacitors C8 and C18. see pic_2_c8_c18, and pic3_c8_c18_removed

pic_2_C8_C18
pic_2_C8_C18
pic_3_C8_C18_removed
pic_3_C8_C18_removed

10. On the PT01 PCB, solder 3 new wires to the 3 locations shown in pic_4_PT01_input

pic_4_PT01_input
pic_4_PT01_input

11. On the bottom side of the PP444 PCB, solder these 3 wires to the location shown in pic_5_PP444_output

pic_5_PP444_output
pic_5_PP444_output

-Connect the 9V Power Supply of the PT01 to the PP444
12. On the bottom side of the PP444 PCB, solder 2 new wires to the location shown in pic_6_PP444_9V_power

pic_6_PP444_9V_power
pic_6_PP444_9V_power

13. On the bottom side of the PT01 PCB, connect these 2 wires to pins 2 and 3 of TE11. see pic_7_PT01_9V_output

pic_7_PT01_9V_output
pic_7_PT01_9V_output

-Quick Test Before Final Install
14. Reassemble the turntable (no need for screws) and test for functionality. Use the wall power supply to power the PT01.

-Final install
15. Hot glue all of the new solder points. This acts as a strain relief for the wires.
16. Reinstall the PT01 PCB with 4 screws
17. Wrap the PP444 PCB with electrical tape or polyimide (kapton) tape (see pic_8_PP444_tape). This is to avoid any potential shorts between the PP444 PCB, and the PT01

pic_8_PP444_tape
pic_8_PP444_tape

18. Set the PP444 PCB on top of the PT01 PCB (see pic_9_PP444_location),with the RCA connectors of the PP444 PCB facing the battery compartment.

pic_9_PP444_location
pic_9_PP444_location

19. Reassemble the turntable.

Extra credit:
-On the PP444 PCB, remove all of the large connectors (RCA, etc.). This is not required, but will make it much smaller. This will make step 19 easier.

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3D Printed Tonearm Install

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Adds an m44-7 Compliant Tonearm to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
3D printed tonearm
needle nose pliers

notes:
-connecting the shure m44-7 to a stock PT01 reduces audio output loudness (due to cartridge/preamp mismatch)
-the preamp mod is highly recommended for use with the m44-7, which boosts the m44-7 loudness
-this tonearm mod improves skating, when bouncing
-add platter bars for best bounce performance

-Remove Existing Tonearm
1. See tonearm removal guide

-Bend Small Wires
2. Bend the small wires to a 90 degree angle form the wire housing to make an “L” shape (see pic_1_L_shape_wire)

pic_1_L_shape_wire
pic_1_L_shape_wire

-Install wire
2. Starting at the back side of the tonearm, and place the thick insulated part of the wire in the trough of the tonearm.
3. Slide the thick part of the wire along the trough towards the headshell. Allow the small wires to pass through the tight restraint sections of the tonearm. Don’t pull on the small wires. Just push the thick part of the wire, and guide the small wires through the restraint (see pic_2_wire install)

pic_2_wire_install
pic_2_wire_install

4. Continue sliding the wire through the tonearm until the small wires reach the headshell (see pic_3_wire_install_2)

pic_3_wire_install_2
pic_3_wire_install_2

-Mount the Cartridge
5. Connect the m44-7 or preferred cartridge to the tonearm wires
6. Mount the m44-7 to the headshell, by placing the nut on the topside of the headshell, and the screw/washer on the cartridge side (see pic_4_mount_m447)

pic_4_mount_m447
pic_4_mount_m447

-Install the Tonearm (David) Axle Rod
7. Place the tonearm on the tonearm base
8. Push the side of the rod that does not have a star on it through the tonearm (see pic_5_install_rod)

pic_5_install_rod
pic_5_install_rod

9. Guide the rod through the tonearm, metal tonearm base of the turntable, and opposite side of the tonearm
10. Press fit the star side of the rod into the tonearm plastic using a needle nose pliers (pic_6_press_fit_rod)

pic_6_press_fit_rod
pic_6_press_fit_rod

-Install Rubber Band Counterweight
11. Wrap the rubber band around the headshell side of the tonearm, and slide it towards the tonearm base (see pic_7_add_rubber_band)

pic_7_add_rubber_band
pic_7_add_rubber_band

12. Wrap the rubber band around the metal tonearm base (not the plastic part of the tonearm), and pull towards the back (see pic_8_rubber_band_base)

pic_8_rubber_band_base
pic_8_rubber_band_base

13. Align the rubber band with the grooves on the back of the tonearm, and attach to a tonearm peg (see pic_9_rubber_band_peg)

pic_9_rubber_band_peg
pic_9_rubber_band_peg

14. Adjust rubber band tension to control counterweight (see 3D printed tonearm counterweight adjustment guide)